Von Othegraven 2019 Bockstein Riesling VDP.GROSSES GEWÄCHS

Unmistakable Bockstein, with aromas of ripe yellow and red fruits, lemon, chamomile and hay, as well as fine honeyed accents on the edges. Yet for all those markers of opulence, its dry palate provides a surprisingly muscular roller coaster ride of complex citrus and herbal flavors, a taut structure, and long spicy finish. The depth of this Grand Cru vineyard strikes a different pose in this vintage, one of sinewy slate power rather than lush Rubenesque fruit. Given a few hours in the glass, the wine starts to reveal its traditional, tropical and pineapple side, suggesting that a few years in the cellar will more than reward the patient connoisseur. Drinking window: 4-12 years.

Serving suggestions: The stony purity of this advanced-level Riesling will shine with a focused minimalism on the plate: steak tartare, baked carp, roasted celeriac or a mildly bitter green such as sauteed cime de rape.